Far above the Arctic Circle, on the eastern shore of Lake Inari, the sky does something most people have only ever seen in photographs. The Northern Lights in Finland arrive when you have half stopped waiting for them — a pale green smudge low in the north, easy to mistake for cloud, until it lifts and begins to move. We have watched it from the same stretch of lake shore for more than twenty winters, and it has never once felt ordinary.
This guide is everything two decades in Inari and Saariselkä have taught us about finding the aurora: when the season runs, where the skies are darkest, how a night of aurora hunting actually unfolds, and how to give yourself the best possible chance — including watching the lights without getting out of bed. The people who wrote it read the same sky you will: our experienced guides who take you out, the kennel teams who raise the huskies, the staff who lock up the restaurant and then stand in the car park a few minutes longer because the forecast looked promising.
We began in 2004, in the village of Nellim on the eastern shore of the lake, inside a building that had been the village school until it closed in 1998. When our founders, Mari and Jouko, took it on, the idea was never simply to open a hotel — it was to bring the old village school back to life. The canteen became our restaurant, the student flats became our first eleven rooms, and a quiet corner of Sámi homeland at the edge of Finland's third-largest lake became the beginning of our journey in nature-based tourism. Two decades on, we are still family-run — and we still choose our places for one reason above all others: so that nature, not the hotel, is the thing you came for.
What are the Northern Lights?
The Northern Lights, or aurora borealis, are bands of coloured light that appear in the night sky when charged particles from the sun collide with gases high in the Earth's atmosphere, near the magnetic poles. Oxygen gives the familiar greens; nitrogen adds the rarer violets and reds. In Finnish Lapland they can appear on any clear, dark night through the long aurora season.
The science is steady; the experience never is. The aurora is a natural phenomenon, which means no one can promise it — not us, not anyone. What we can do is put you in the right place at the right time of year, under some of the darkest skies in Finland, and go looking with guides who know how the sky behaves here. Thanks to the microclimates around Lake Inari and the fells of Saariselkä, a clear gap can open even on a night the forecast had written off.
The Finnish Meteorological Institute publishes a live aurora and space-weather forecast for Finland, and Visit Finland keeps a good national overview. We read the same data every evening before we head out.
When can you see the aurora in Finnish Lapland?
The Northern Lights season in Finnish Lapland runs roughly from late August to early April — essentially, for as long as the nights are long and dark. They are at their most reliable from September to March, when the darkness deepens and snow brightens the ground underfoot.
Three things have to line up: darkness, a clear sky, and solar activity. Darkness is the one you can plan for. In Inari the polar night — kaamos — settles in from late November to mid-January, when the sun never climbs above the horizon and aurora-friendly skies can last almost the whole day. Clear skies and solar activity change from one night to the next, which is exactly why we suggest staying several nights rather than staking the whole trip on one.
For a month-by-month breakdown — including the months we quietly recommend to guests who come back year after year — see our guide to the best time to see the Northern Lights in Finland.
Where to see the Northern Lights: why Inari and Saariselkä
You can, in principle, see the aurora across the whole of Lapland. But two things make the far north — the Inari–Saariselkä region, where all our hotels sit — particularly good: it is far enough north to lie under the auroral oval often, and the dark skies here are among the best in Finland.
Wilderness Hotel Nellim sits on the shore of Lake Inari, about 40 kilometres northeast of Ivalo, in a village ringed by forest and water. Wilderness Hotel Muotka stands 15 kilometres out from Saariselkä village, alone by a fell. Wilderness Hotel Inari and Wilderness Hotel Nangu are both on the shore of Lake Inari — the third-largest lake in Finland, and one of the largest sub-Arctic lakes in Europe — while Wilderness Hotel Juutua stands right beside the Juutua River in Inari village. In Saariselkä itself, Wilderness Hotel Saariselkä is a few kilometres from the village centre and Wilderness Hotel Kieppi is in the heart of it.
Deep darkness helps the aurora show at its best, and most of our hotels have it on the doorstep. But it is not everything: on an active night, guests watch the Northern Lights even from Kieppi and Juutua, right in the village — and wherever you stay, our guided tours can take you out to darker skies in minutes.
The nearest airport is Ivalo (IVL), about 45 minutes' drive from every one of our hotels — and that drive, out of the small terminal and into the dark forest, is where most guests catch their first real sight of stars.
Watching the aurora from your bed: the Aurora Cabin
If there is one thing Wilderness Hotels is known for, it is this. The Aurora Cabin is a glass-roof cabin — also called a glass-roof igloo — for up to four people, with a laser-heated glass roof that opens straight above the bed into the northern sky, so you can lie back, watch the star-filled sky, and catch the Northern Lights from the comfort of your bed.
There is no alarm to set, no three layers to pull on, no field to stand in hoping. You can be warm, under the duvet, and still be watching the sky. Each Aurora Cabin has a private bathroom with a shower. We have Aurora Cabins at Wilderness Hotel Nellim, Wilderness Hotel Muotka, Wilderness Hotel Inari and Wilderness Hotel Nangu — and at Wilderness Hotel Saariselkä, the rooms come with panoramic windows that offer a similar chance of catching the lights without leaving your bed.
For the full comparison of glass-roof rooms across our hotels, see our guide to glass igloos and Aurora Cabins in Finnish Lapland.
How we look for the aurora (and why we never promise it)
A guided Northern Lights hunt is the active counterpart to watching from your cabin — and the two work beautifully together. We run several kinds: Aurora Hunt by Car, aurora hunts on snowshoes, aurora hunts by snowmobile, and an Aurora Workshop for anyone who wants to photograph the lights properly. Each covers different ground, which is why your chances on a given night depend on the tour you choose — not on which hotel you sleep in. Here is how a typical evening goes.
We read the data. Before dusk, our experienced guides check the cloud cover and the space-weather forecast. On an Aurora Hunt by Car, if the sky looks better 20 kilometres away, we drive the 20 kilometres; on snowshoes or by snowmobile we range closer to the hotel and let the trail and the sky decide.
We brief you and dress you. For outdoor activities we provide a winter clothing package — thermal overalls, boots and gloves — to go over your own warm layers. Your English-speaking guide gives a full safety briefing before anyone sets off.
We go where it is darkest. Depending on the tour you choose, that might be a short walk onto the lake ice, a snowshoe trail into the forest, a snowmobile ride to the top of a fell, or a drive to the clearest patch of sky with hot drinks while we wait.
We wait, and we watch. Sometimes the aurora is overhead within ten minutes; sometimes it comes at two in the morning; sometimes the cloud simply wins. We are honest about this. We never promise the Northern Lights — we promise to do everything we can to find them.
That honesty is not a disclaimer to be skimmed over. It is the whole point. The travellers who leave happiest are the ones who came for Lapland — the silence, the snow underfoot, the huskies, the food by a Sámi village river — and treated the aurora as the gift it is, not the only thing they came to collect.
Comparison: ways to see the Northern Lights with us
Aurora Cabin | Guided aurora hunt (car, snowshoes or snowmobile) | Combine both | |
Effort | None — watch from bed | Active, outdoors | The best of both |
Best for | Couples, light sleepers | Photographers, families | Most guests |
Warmth | Fully heated cabin | Thermal gear provided | — |
Mobility | One fixed spot | Move to find clear sky | Maximises the chances |
Signature | From the comfort of your bed | A guide who reads the sky | A full Arctic night |
Which Northern Lights trip is right for you?
Every hotel runs its own selection of Northern Lights tours — from car-based hunts to snowshoe and snowmobile evenings and the Aurora Workshop. You can browse them under each hotel's activities; the Wilderness Hotel Inari activities page is a good place to start.
"We want the best chance over a short trip"
Stay at least three nights and pair an Aurora Cabin with one or two guided hunts — an Aurora Hunt by Car gives the widest range on a cloudy night. More nights, more chances — it really is that simple. Our Northern Lights Adventure and Magic of Northern Lights packages are built around exactly this.
"We're a couple and want it quiet"
Consider adults-only Wilderness Hotel Nangu on Lake Inari, or an Aurora Cabin at Wilderness Hotel Muotka — the one place where the cabins also come with their own sauna or indoor fireplace.
"We're travelling with children"
Wilderness Hotel Nellim, Wilderness Hotel Muotka and Wilderness Hotel Inari are our most family-friendly hotels, and the days fill themselves with huskies and reindeer while the evenings belong to the sky.
"We want to photograph the aurora properly"
Bring a tripod and a camera with a manual mode, and join a guided hunt — or our Aurora Workshop, where our expert guides walk you through what the aurora actually is, then set up your own camera with the right settings for photographing the Northern Lights. Being able to move to the clearest patch of sky matters more than any single setting. The practical tips are just below.
How to photograph the Northern Lights
You do not need professional gear, but a few basics make all the difference:
A tripod. Non-negotiable. Exposures run several seconds; handheld will blur.
Manual mode. Start around ISO 1600–3200, the aperture as wide as your lens allows (f/2.8–f/4), shutter 5–15 seconds, and adjust from there.
Manual focus to infinity. Autofocus gives up in the dark; focus on a bright star and leave it.
Spare batteries, kept warm. Cold drains them fast — an inside pocket is your friend.
Take the shot, then look up. The best photographers here take one frame, set the camera down, and actually watch.
If you would rather learn this with someone standing beside you, that is exactly what the Aurora Workshop is for: a simple overview of the science behind the phenomenon, and your own camera optimised for the northern sky before you need it.
What to wear when aurora hunting at -30°C
Standing still under a winter sky is colder than any activity, so layering is what counts. In winter, temperatures here sit between -10°C and -25°C, and on the coldest days can fall to -40°C. We provide the winter clothing package — thermal overalls, boots and gloves — but the layers underneath are yours to bring. The short version: wool or synthetic base layers, a warm mid-layer, a hat that covers the ears, and no cotton, which loses all its warmth the moment it is damp. Our full what to wear and pack for a Lapland winter guide has the complete checklist.
What three nights can look like
We cannot show you the aurora on command — but we can tell you honestly how a winter stay tends to unfold, because the shape of it matters more than any single night.
The first evening, you arrive in the dark. Dinner is long and warm; afterwards someone nods you towards the lake ice, where the cold bites sharper than you expected and the stars hang closer than you have ever seen them. Cloud, perhaps. You sleep deeply.
The second day is for the things that fill the short daylight — a husky team pulling you through the forest, a reindeer and a quiet hour by a fire, a sauna before dinner. That night, a faint green glow shows briefly from the restaurant window, and half the room falls silent to watch it go.
On the third night the sky opens. It often does this late, around eleven or midnight, and it often starts so softly that you argue with yourself about whether it is really there — until it brightens, and there is no more arguing. You watch it from the lake ice, or from under the glass roof, until the cold or the hour sends you indoors.
The point is the three nights, not the one. Give the sky more chances, fill the days in between, and let the aurora be the gift rather than the whole shopping list.
Common mistakes when chasing the Northern Lights
Booking only one night. The single biggest mistake. The aurora keeps its own schedule — give yourself several nights.
Giving up after two minutes. Patience is the habit that pays. Dress up warmly in the outdoor gear we provide, step outside, and give the sky time — displays often build slowly, and a quick glance from the doorway tells you almost nothing.
Writing off a stay near the village lights. Deep darkness shows the aurora at its best, but strong displays are seen even from the heart of Saariselkä. What matters is stepping away from direct light — or joining a guided hunt that takes you to darker skies.
Expecting the colours of the photographs. A camera gathers more light than the eye; to the naked eye the aurora is often a moving, pale green. It is still extraordinary.
Forgetting it is a winter night outdoors. Cold ends more aurora hunts than cloud does. Dress for it.
Trusting a "guarantee". No honest operator guarantees a natural phenomenon. Be wary of anyone who does.
Planning your trip: when to book
Winter is our busy season, and Aurora Cabins are limited. Guests chasing the aurora typically book six to nine months ahead for December to March. If you have particular dates or a particular cabin in mind, the earlier you are in touch, the more we can do.
Tell us your dates and the kind of Lapland night you have in mind, and we will help you plan it. Our sales team will put together an itinerary built around the aurora — calmly, with no pressure to rush.
Plan your Arctic adventure
Contact us: sales@wildernesshotels.fi · +358 10 212 3990
Wilderness Hotels & Safaris, Inari–Saariselkä, Finnish Lapland
Frequently asked questions
Can you guarantee I will see the Northern Lights?
No — and you should be cautious of anyone who does. The aurora is a natural phenomenon that depends on darkness, clear skies and solar activity. What we can promise is that we will put you under some of the darkest skies in Finland, read the forecast every night, and do everything we can to find them.
What is the best month to see the Northern Lights in Finland?
Any month from September to March can be excellent. The darkest period is the polar night, from late November to mid-January. For a full month-by-month breakdown, see our best time to see the Northern Lights guide.
How many nights should I stay to see the aurora?
We recommend at least three nights. The Northern Lights do not appear on demand, so more nights simply mean more chances — and the days in between are full of huskies, reindeer, sauna and Lappish food.
Can I really see the Northern Lights from my bed?
Yes. Our Aurora Cabins — glass-roof igloos with a laser-heated roof that opens directly above the bed — let you watch the star-filled sky, or the aurora itself, from the comfort of your bed in a warm room. At Wilderness Hotel Saariselkä, panoramic windows offer a similar chance from your room.
How cold does it get when aurora hunting?
Winter temperatures here range from -10°C to -25°C, and on the coldest days can drop to -40°C. We provide a winter clothing package — thermal overalls, boots and gloves — for outdoor activities.
Where are your hotels, and how do I get there?
All our hotels are in the Inari–Saariselkä region of Finnish Lapland, above the Arctic Circle. The nearest airport is Ivalo (IVL), about 45 minutes' drive from every hotel.
Do I need a guide, or can I see the aurora on my own?
Both work. Many guests watch from an Aurora Cabin or just outside the hotel. A guided hunt — by car, on snowshoes or by snowmobile — adds the ability to reach clearer skies and the knowledge of guides who read the sky every night.
Is it worth coming if the aurora doesn't appear?
We think so, and our guests tell us so. People come for the Northern Lights and leave talking about the silence, the snow, the huskies and the food. The aurora is the gift on top.
What else is there to do during the day?
Husky and reindeer safaris, snowmobile tours, ice fishing, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing — all with English-speaking guides. See our guide to things to do in Lapland in winter.
Expert info
Written by: the Wilderness Hotels guide team, Inari & Saariselkä.
We have run guided Northern Lights experiences in Finnish Lapland since 2004, from our hotels across the Inari–Saariselkä region. Wilderness Hotels is a family-owned company; our founders, Mari and Jouko, were named National Entrepreneurs of the Year in Finland in 2024. All our locations hold Green Key (since 2022) and Sustainable Travel Finland (since 2024) certifications.
📞 Contact: sales@wildernesshotels.fi · +358 10 212 3990
Sources:
Finnish Meteorological Institute — Auroras and space weather (en.ilmatieteenlaitos.fi)
Visit Finland — How to see the Northern Lights (visitfinland.com)
Restaurant Aanaar — history and recognitions (restaurantaanaar.fi)
Wilderness Hotels — own operational experience, Inari–Saariselkä
